Rift sawing involves cutting the log at a slight angle to produce boards with a straight grain pattern. This method is less common and more expensive than plain sawing because it produces less lumber and requires more time to produce.
Can I really dry Hawaiian Koa on my own?
Over the decades, and if I include my father's operations from the early 70's, the Winkler have milled and dried MILLIONS of Board Feet of Hawaiian Koa. Yes, that's right, 7 figures, and if we include non-Koa species I think that number might even be in the 8 digits! Wow, even I'm impressed thinking about it. While I'm not trying to "toot our own horn" I share that info so you understand we have gone through so many different problems and issues to come up with fairly consistent methods to produce quality dried Hawaiian-grown woods, hard or soft.
Glue types for KamiPLY and WashiPLY and other paperback veneers
While we do discuss some layup techniques and pointers here, this article is chiefly written to help you decide which glues you should use based on your method of laying up, rather than going into too many details about the layup process. After reading this in its entirety you may also decide on a particular layup method based on the glue you decide to use. We hope you find this helpful!
Finishing Koa KamiPLY or WashiPLY Veneers and Lumber
Koa is NOT worth it?!
Just thought I’d share my thoughts as a tonewood supplier and ukulele builder, since I get asked a LOT about whether or not a player should spring the extra $$ for an all solid Hawaiian Koa ukulele (or guitar).
Simple answer - Yes, if you can afford it. But why?
Is a Koa ukulele any better than a maple, walnut or mahogany? Will it produce a better sound? And will the epic looking curly koa sound better?